Today is my parents’ anniversary. Time flies and I cannot believe that it’s two years since they celebrated their 40th Wedding Anniversary away in Hawaii. It’s seems like yesterday. To mark the occasion I thought I’d reproduce a blog piece I put on MySpace a while ago.
My Mum always wanted to go to the Hawaiian islands so my parents felt it would be a wonderful place for our family to commemorate their special day. Although a bit dubious about going on holiday with my parents in my mid thirties, it was something that meant a lot to them, and an opportunity to visit one of the world’s most beautiful locations. I could not pass that chance over. So on 1st September 2006 we set out from Heathrow and via San Francisco arrived on the beautiful island of Maui. But while our time there was eventful due to a large bush fire raging away, it is the Big Island, and the second island we visited where I’d like to start my account…
The fifth day into our holiday, and the first full day on the Big Island, we headed north out of the capital Hilo climbing up the Hamakua Coast highway for few miles before detouring down the old road which has become the Pepe’ekeo Scenic Drive. This route winds its way slowly down towards the sea hugging the coastline before looping back to the main state highway. The pace of the road and the life of small colourful communities dotted along its way are slow as its curves, narrow nature, and adverse cambers bring your maximum speed down to around 20mph. 
But you wouldn’t want to rush this. Amongst the green foliage and vivid flowers appear wooden houses with beat up cars parked in rutted driveways, and multi-coloured garments draped over verandas. Occasionally bare-footed youngsters appear from paths leading down to secluded bays, or from under the narrow bridges that cross streams carrying crystal clear mountain water to the sea.
We pulled in at the roadside parking for Onomea Bay, and made the short walk down a gentle path enclosed by trees and ferns, but still not entirely sheltered from the heat of the morning sun forging its way through gaps in the canopy above. To our right between the foliage during the descent were glimpses of the sea, hurrying in against dark volcanic rocks, forming picture postcard opportunities for any keen photographer. I could have whiled away a far longer time than we spent down in the bay watching the surf crash in on the black sand, but we had to press on for there was a lot more to see that day. 
Back on the main road we travelled a few miles north before turning off into the small settlement of Akaka. A quaint row of wooden buildings, mainly local art galleries, was completed by a bakery just before the junction for Akaka Falls, our next destination. Before venturing up through the sugar cane plantations to the falls, we trooped into the bakery in search of something we could take with us for lunch. The choice of the finest sweetbreads and pastries was incredible, but I settled for a coconut turnover and a guava “bear paw”, a bread cake as sticky and sweet as it is delicious. The lady who owned the shop demonstrated the legendary friendliness, kindness and welcoming ways of the Hawaiian people. As we paid for the goodies she told us that if we were going to the falls to be careful of mosquitoes and use some repellent. She had some for sale in the shop for $8 so we asked for a bottle to be added to the bill. Hearing none of it, she produced her own bottle from her bag and let the three of us liberally spray ourselves for nothing! Kindness replaces Capitalism in Akaka! So if you are ever there visit the friendly Ed’s Bakery and stock up of wonderful food and pass some time with the lovely retired teacher who runs it. Now replete with supplies we walked back into the heat and pushed on for Akaka Falls.
The road climbs its way up to a couple of thousand feet before ending in a small mongoose-ridden car park where the path to the falls starts. (Sadly the mongooses’ arrival in Hawaii was an example of the stupidity of man – introduced by plantation owners to counter a rat problem, the mongoose merely tucked into native bird eggs by day and slept while the nocturnal rats ran amok unhindered.) We paused at the top of the steps to watch a Hawaiian craftsman create hats and bowls out of palm leaves and tell his tale of the art being passed down the generations. Having watched in fascination for several minutes, we headed off to find the falls. The narrow steps plunge you down into a thick tropical haven of bamboo thickets that soar skywards, vast bayan trees, ferns, creepers, and thick green mosses. Amidst this jungle you pass along the easy and winding path taking in the smells of the blossom and the chorus of the birds of paradise, though spotting these tiny colourful birds can be harder than you’d think. Sooner than you’d imagine you round a corner and arrive at a viewpoint looking upstream to Akaka itself. 
The water spills down a sheer drop of around 450 feet through a chasm of tropical vegetation to a steaming pool below. The sunlight played on the foaming spray and a small rainbow completed a truly incredible sight. We savoured the view by ourselves for a few minutes until we were joined by an equally awestruck Pole and his daughter. Learning we were English we conversed for a while about our holiday experiences so far, his Polish relatives in the UK, and the truly amazing Big Island.
Climbing back up to the car park was no chore, as the experience of being in such a perfumed, pure and fresh environment with constant birdsong, babbling waters, and the sun streaming through the treetops produced an idyllic atmosphere which made discomfort impossible. I was sorry to bid it farewell as I could have easily spent all day in there. But we had an hour’s drive back through Hilo and southwest to ascend to the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park by lunchtime if I was going to have my walk across a lava field! The journey by car saw us rise steadily out of Hilo, road markers giving the altitude every 500 feet, until we were about 4,000 feet, passing through the village of Volcano and nearing the park’s gates.
Established in 1916, the park encompasses diverse environments that range from sea level to the summit of the volcano, Mauna Loa at 13,677 feet. Kīlauea, a volcano almost continuously active since 1983, offers scientists insights on the birth of the Hawaiian Islands and visitors views of dramatic volcanic landscapes as lava flows spew into the sea. After wolfing down some lunch and a short tour of the visitor centre, we made our way around the 11 miles long Crater Rim Drive, a route that encircles the Kīlauea summit caldera, traverses the caldera floor, and provides scenic stops like the the Hawaiian Volcano Observatory, the Jaggar Museum, and the Thurston Lava Tube. The latter is a remarkable experience, a prehistoric lava tube old tall enough for you to walk through it. Taking in most of these attractions, we also peered down into the the Halema’uma’u Crater. The crater is about 3,000 feet across and nearly 300 feet deep but changed greatly during the 20th century. In 1924, it was only 1,500 feet in diameter but was filled by a lake of molten lava that bubbled and boiled at 2,100 degrees Fahrenheit. Another stunning encounter was driving past the 1982 lava flow that engulfed the road we were travelling on.
Back at the visitor centre my parents took a rest and went for a drink, while I set out on part of the Halema’uma’u Trail. It was a trail of stark contrast, one descends 400 feet through beautiful rain forest alive with colourful and raucous birdlife, eventually reaching the caldera floor, then crosses the rocky surface to the Halema’uma’u Crater. I had this walk to myself apart from one couple I saw on my return. If the rain forest was both impressive and relaxing, arriving at the clearing to join the caldera floor was simply breathtaking. 
The trail is across lava rock, the route marked by small piles of the rock as it zig zags its way for several miles to the crater. Cracks in the surface emit steam and gases, a sulphur smell hangs ever present in the air. But it’s not all desolation. Small clumps of vegetation litter the surface. It was incredibly hot out there despite the now overcast day, and somewhat eerie all alone, crunching across the surface like broken glass, and knowing that molten lava is only 2 miles beneath your feet and might fancy making your acquaintance. (To put it into context lava is usually around 50 miles beneath your feet). It was all a bit disconcerting the further I walked away from the “safety” of the forest. There was no way I’d make the crater and back in the time available so it was about turn and back to the climb through the ferns and trees pausing occasionally to attempt photographs of vivid birds as they flitted from branch to branch.
It really needs an overnight stay to do the Chain of Craters Road justice, the end of which becomes a trail over the rocky surface to the edge of the freshly flowing lava as it drops into the hissing and steaming sea. This is best seen at night for a really dramatic effect. As we were heading off to the island of Kauai the next day this adventure is left for another day in the future. However there were plenty of memories already from a quite unforgettable day. The whole holiday was an unforgettable experience, a wonderful way to mark the milestone of 40 years together, and it’s something my parents will remember for the rest of their days.
