Archive for the 'Life stories' Category

The Fourth is not strong in this one

Fourth fireworksFriday 3rd July gave me a taster of what was to come. The neighbourhood was alive with fireworks of a volume I have never experienced, and these salvos carried on into the early hours keeping me awake until at least 2am. So I was not in the best of moods when I eventually rose, which added to my general dread about the 4th July. Patriotic banners and decorations had long appeared outside houses, (someone had even spray-painted the US flag on their lawn) while cookies with red, white and blue icing adorned the “specials” displays in supermarkets. There’s normally a large number of “Stars and Stripes” flags around the neighbourhood on any normal day, in fact if I saw those many Union Flags back in the UK I’d think I’d wandered unwittingly into a BNP convention. But as the 4th July approaches even more are unfurled. America tends to be far too self-congratulatory at the best of times in my view, so I was expecting an über expression of fervent patriotism. Thankfully Tina is open-minded enough to believe that America is far from perfect, there is much room for improvement, and shares my view that the outpouring of a pride bordering on arrogance in many cases on the 4th July is fairly over the top.

So therefore you might expect that our 4th was fairly low key and you’d be right. Fourth fireworksThe day was dissected by a trip over to Tina’s employers’ to let their dog out for some exercise as they are away on holiday. There was fear that this trip towards downtown would mean crazy traffic and no parking when we returned to the beaches, the most popular gathering spot for the celebrations. But it did give some cause for some celebration of our own. During a visit to an Arlington thrift store, Tina unearthed a brand new dress with store tickets still attached (showing $140) for only $10. Meanwhile I found a shirt, again brand new with store stickers in place for just $4. Plus we found several CDs at $1 each. I was warming to the 4th July. Another bonus was that many of the shops were nearly empty of shoppers, so it was a good time to stock up on weekly food goods. (But not patriotic cookies!)

Back at the beach we had a traditional American meal of burgers and hot dogs (both vegetarian of course) in honour of the great day. But in an unpatriotic move we selected a bottle of Australian Merlot rather than a Californian red, and adjourned to the table in the apartment garden area. Fouth fireworksIt was a sultry evening with no breeze, but enjoyable out there talking to some of our neighbours, and watching the increasing number of revellers staggering by on their way to the beach for the firework display. I enjoyed proffering the opinion that America might be a better place if Britain had actually held on to it. It was all taken in good heart. Just before the fireworks were due to start at 9:30pm we wandered down to the boardwalk to watch the spectacle through the waving sea oats in the dunes. It seemed most of the apartment block residents were there, joining somewhere around 100,000 other people. I left the “oohing” and “aahing” to the natives, I’m not overly fond of fireworks. I think they are in the main a waste of money, scare the animals, and if I wanted to be kept awake all night by loud bangs and flashes I’d have holidayed in Baghdad. However they do make an interesting and challenging subject to photograph. The majority of the photos I took were disappointing but here are the acceptable wheat from the chaff. Back at the garden seat we watched the traffic jam crawl southwards until well past midnight, and I stayed out further into the early hours drinking with the neighbours. An uneasy truce? Nah, good friends and willing parties to banter.

Fourth fireworks Fourth fireworks

Castle Otttis

Castle Otttis

As mentioned in an earlier post, Tina’s mother Linda is getting married in October and the search is on for a suitable venue. On Saturday evening Tina was working so Linda and her fiance Shawn took me along to Castle Otttis in St Augustine, about 25 miles south of Jacksonville Beach. It turned out to be a remarkable and memorable visit.

We were met for our 6pm appointment by Rusty, the man who literally dreamed up Castle Otttis. The castle is a landscape sculpture in remembrance to Jesus Christ. Rusty recounted the story of the Castle Otttis: after experiencing reoccurring dreams about the castle, he revealed these dreams to his trusted friend and co-worker Ottis Sadler while working on a conventional construction site. Ottis’ matter of fact reply was along the lines of “We will have to build it then”. Through the star windowThey started in May 1984, and the the masonry work was done by the men working together without the aid of labourers, helpers, elevation drawings, or models. The materials they used in the exterior were split-face concrete block, steel reinforcement rod, and poured concrete. In the summer of 1988 there was a feeling that the exterior structure was complete. However that was not the end of the construction. Interior woodwork was carried out for a further three years by the appropriately named Lee Carpenter, and what a fine job he made too. Utilising primarily cypress wood and some old southern heart-pine, he crafted eight different examples of staircases in addition to an altar, a pulpit, a Bishop’s chair, a choir loft, and pews. Through the round windowThe design of the exterior was deliberately crude to capture the spirit of a 1,000 year old Irish castle, so one’s breath is taken when unexpectedly encountering the simple yet beautifully crafted wooden interior.

The castle had a very peaceful ambiance, and with no glass in any of its windows, enjoys shafts of sunlight which illuminate the interior perfectly. I imagine it would be a very special location for a wedding service. Castle Otttis
Rusty took us up on to the roof (the structure is around 50 feet high) which gave good views out to sea, and towards St Augustine. Here we chatted for some while about all sorts of subjects including rising sea levels, recent flooding in St Augustine, and music - Rusty played the bass in a Reggae band. Time flew by and I was surprised to find we had spent two hours at Castle Otttis. It was an enjoyable visit and an awe inspiring one too. It is remarkable to think that two men alone using simple techniques dedicated four years to produce such a wonderful structure which now enhances the local landscape. Moon at Castle Otttis
I asked whether the general attitude of the locals was a positive one. Rusty assured me that it was during construction and has remained so up to present day. It is a local curiosity, and but for a locked gate, many more visitors would wander into the courtyard, something that is solely by appointment. Somehow I think the NIMBY brigade in Britain would be employing every planning permission rule in the book to object. Thankfully Castle Otttis is likely to be around when we are all long gone.

St Augustine sunset

Picture of innocence

Naughty Molly
Caught in the Act Part 1:
“This table may be out of bounds, you might remove me from it countless times a day, but up yours, I’m having a cat nap whether you like it or not”

Naughty Molly
Caught in the Act Part 2:
“Who knocked over my toy box? It wasn’t me Guv, I was asleep, honest”

I'm cute too
“Never mind that young upstart, photograph me - I’m cute too!”

It’s a sign…

Lifeguard seat sign…not from above but from the local neighbourhood. Early morning bike rides along the beach often turn up something unusual or eye-catching so the camera is always packed in my rucksack. This post’s photo collection initially started as a practical moment, an attempt to record the warning flags that fly at the beach and advice about rip currents so I could avoid any dangers lurking in the ocean. But as I rode around the beaches area I spotted other signage that would be unusual to the British readers of this blog, despite being just part of ordinary daily life over here. It’s a chance to practice photograph composition too. Hope you enjoy the images of just another day around Jacksonville Beach.

Beach warning sign
How it all started - beach warning sign

Rip currents
Rip currents - if in doubt do nowt, stay on the beach!

Sea Oats sign
People of North Staffordshire appreciate the importance of their oats too

Welcoming sign
Strict. Makes a change from “No ball games by order”

Wrong way
There doesn’t look much wrong with this way at all. Rather pleasant in fact

Ragtime Neptune Beach
Ragtime Tavern Neptune Beach

Sign overload
A plethora of signs - including the Florida Times-Union newspaper known to some around here as the “Jacksonville Joke”

Bike signs
Don’t worry I always do

Sofa so good

Sofa so good

I’ve been here a month now and so far so good. The last week or so I’ve been mainly in the house doing DIY chores and spending a lot of time riding to hardware stores. It’s not all beach life you know. In fact since the day I was crab spotting I have not been back for a sunbathe mainly due to letting the sunburn recover! There are a few photos to upload from a few hikes and trips downtown, plus some more from around the beach. There’s no time for that now so I’ll just leave you all with this typical sofa scene - a good book and two doting cats.

Under the old oak tree

Cummer GardensTina’s Mum Linda is getting married in October to long term partner Shawn. At the moment the couple are investigating suitably romantic locations for the ceremony. On Tuesday, which also happened to be Linda’s birthday, we all met up at the Cummer Museum of Art and Gardens in Riverside. Tuesdays evening also happens to be free to the public due to a sponsorship deal, giving us the opportunity to appraise the gardens’ suitability without parting with a few dollars! The gardens were beautiful and included a 150 year old oak tree with a huge canopy. Sadly there was little time to examine the art treasures too (something to do another quiet Tuesday evening), and photography inside the building is forbidden. However here are a few photos of the gardens which overlook the St John’s River.

Cummer Gardens

Cummer Gardens

Cummer Oak

It’s a jungle out there…

The Postman Cometh

… or so it seems. A typical scene around 3:30pm most days is the postman arriving and filling up the mail box. This one likes his issue pith helmet, although most of the others don’t bother.

White (in some places light blue) sun helmets of plastic material but traditional design are still worn today by some mail carriers of the U.S. Postal Service (USPS), when delivering the mail on foot in hot climates such as South Carolina, Florida, Southern California, Arizona, and Hawaii.

says Wikipedia. So it would seem. I like the foliage at the front of this shot giving the impression that Postie had a far more difficult delivery to make than actually occurs. However that said, during the floods a few weeks ago the post van had to mount the lawn to avoid Postie stepping out into several inches of water. The mail must arrive after all.

City Wildlife

Butterfly Tree HillFinding reasonably priced and engaging entertainment for Tina’s two youngest boys can be a challenge, but a bit of internet research had turned up the option of Tree Hill Nature Center, so on Saturday we decided to try it out. Remarkably given that it is short distance from downtown Jacksonville, Tree Hill is home to 50 acres of trails through woodland, a Florida Natural History Museum, butterfly and hummingbird gardens and native animals. Furthermore, Tree Hill attempts to provide environmental and energy education to the local community, and has been doing so for over 3 decades. As a “Green” and someone who likes trails it seemed a good choice for a family outing. And the entrance fee was rather cheap ;-)

After a picnic in the company of a rooster and a few hens, we visited the butterfly enclosure, got friendly with a pen of aimiable goats, and then headed off to do one of the longer trails. Goats Tree HillIt seemed like it was going to be a fairly uneventful walk until an armadillo was spotted as it scuttled under a boardwalk leading to a small pool. Waiting quietly paid off and the armadillo eventually made a break for the undergrowth at some speed, but not quick enough to evade my camera. About ten minutes later when we paused for a rest another armadillo scurried its way behind us, too quick for me to swing round, switch on the camera Armadillo Tree Hilland snap if before it became obscured. I enjoyed the trip to Tree Hill, and I intend to return probably on my own so I can sit patiently somewhere with my camera and see what turns up. There are meant to be raccoon and the occasional bird of prey. A remarkable nature enclave amidst the busy city, and Arlington district.

The trip ended as the skies threatened rain, and sure enough the drive downtown was through heavy rain as we crossed the St John’s River. The intention was to have a ride on the monorail, and at first a lack of quarter coins and the rain made it look unlikely. But in a scene uncommon in Britain, a friendly hot dog salesman changed some money without a grumble and we were away. The photos from the ride were disappointing because of the murk so I intend to dedicate another blog post to a repeat experience some point in the future.

More Photos

Butterflies Tree Hill

Goats Tree Hill

Billy goat Tree Hill

Armadillo Tree Hill

Seen a Ghost… Crab

Ghost Crab, Jacksonville Beach 9th June 2009 After several days of afternoon storms preventing any sunbathing, I learnt my lesson and on Tuesday I set off for the beach at 10am. Once again I had liberally applied the Factor 50 to protect my pasty skin, and settled down on the lounger in a quiet spot near the boardwalk from our street. I was positioned high up the beach away from the sea quite close to the dunes where the long grass swayed gently in what little breeze there was. It is already very hot by that time of day, a cloudless sky with the sun beating relentlessly down is a perfect place for me to relax. One can almost feel the energy surging back into the body to “recharge the batteries”. But I can only lie there inactive for so long, so I started to read my current book of choice, a biography - “Aneurin Bevan - Volume 1″ by veteran politician Michael Foot.

Out of the corner of my eye I spotted movement. I looked up from the book to see a sizable crab about a yard from my sun lounger. I scrambled to get my camera out of my bag but to no avail, in a flash the crab had squeezed down a hole that was about an inch and a half diameter. Ghost Crab hides itself, Jacksonville Beach 9th June 2009I surveyed the environs. About 10 yards away another crab was making its sidewards way along near the line of the dunes. Unwisely I leapt up with my camera to get a closer picture. Startled, the crab commenced burying itself in the impression of a footprint in the sand. Back at the lounger the book was put aside, and I started to scour the landscape. There was another crab, and another. They were all over the place if you looked closely enough. Using the camera at its maximum zoom I spent almost an hour observing their behaviour and taking snaps. It was quite hard as they seemed to detect the slightest movement even yards away, and they would flit for cover. Ghost Crabs about to tussle, Jacksonville Beach 9th June 2009
The beach was full of holes excavated by the crabs, every so often one would pop out, deposit its load of sand at the entrance, then retreat for its next batch. The crabs were about the size of a human hand, but complete with fiercesome pincers.

Later internet research identified these crabs as Ghost Crabs, and the description here from Wikipedia seems a perfect match:

Ghost crabs, also called sand crabs, are crabs of the genus Ocypode, common shore crabs in many countries. In the south eastern United States, Ocypode quadrata is frequently seen scurrying along beaches between sunset and dawn.

These crabs are called ghosts because of their ability to disappear from sight almost instantly, scuttling at speeds up to 10 miles per hour, while making sharp directional changes. These creatures have two black eyes, with very good 360° vision.

The ghost crab tunnels down four feet into the ground at a 45° angle, creating 1-2 inch wide holes, which speckle the beach. At dusk, these crabs will sprint to the ocean in order to obtain oxygen from the water which washes over their gills, and in the beginning of the summer, females will release their eggs into the ocean.

This is another interesting piece on the Ghost Crab by Patricia B. Mitchell Hungry Nocturnal Ghosties

As more people arrived on the beach the crabs stayed hidden for longer so I returned to my book and tan. The latter is a sore point, literally, as the Factor 50 proved somewhat useless, and I realised later that the 3 hours on the beach had been enough to inflict a burnt back and shoulders. At least I escaped crab bites!

More photos

Ghost Crab, Jacksonville Beach 9th June 2009

Ghost Crab amongst the pebbles and shells, Jacksonville Beach 8th June 2009

Around 2pm everday…

…this seems to happen:

Rainy days (Click for short video - 8Mb download)

Yesterday I daubed sun block all over myself in readiness for the beach only for the sky to darken and a thunderstorm take hold before I even got out of the door. It stayed around until early evening flooding the street outside. Today I managed to get to the beach, but after ten minutes it went ominously dark and a large raindrop landed on my chest. I sat in contemplation for a few minutes hoping it would pass but as the rain drops gathered pace I decided to follow the example of the rest of the people fleeing the beach. They were obviously well versed in the Jacksonville weather. I trudged back to the apartment just 25 minutes after setting out. A wise choice, as almost with ritual timing the heavens opened, the thunder cracked and heavy rain stopped play. Molly Cat has taken up residence under a bed, and it looks like another afternoon cooped up for me too.

Stop Press - The Aftermath:

The aftermath of 90 minutes of rain 8th June 2009

Big splash - the aftermath of 90 minutes of heavy rain 8th June 2009