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Seen a Ghost… Crab

Ghost Crab, Jacksonville Beach 9th June 2009 After several days of afternoon storms preventing any sunbathing, I learnt my lesson and on Tuesday I set off for the beach at 10am. Once again I had liberally applied the Factor 50 to protect my pasty skin, and settled down on the lounger in a quiet spot near the boardwalk from our street. I was positioned high up the beach away from the sea quite close to the dunes where the long grass swayed gently in what little breeze there was. It is already very hot by that time of day, a cloudless sky with the sun beating relentlessly down is a perfect place for me to relax. One can almost feel the energy surging back into the body to “recharge the batteries”. But I can only lie there inactive for so long, so I started to read my current book of choice, a biography - “Aneurin Bevan - Volume 1″ by veteran politician Michael Foot.

Out of the corner of my eye I spotted movement. I looked up from the book to see a sizable crab about a yard from my sun lounger. I scrambled to get my camera out of my bag but to no avail, in a flash the crab had squeezed down a hole that was about an inch and a half diameter. Ghost Crab hides itself, Jacksonville Beach 9th June 2009I surveyed the environs. About 10 yards away another crab was making its sidewards way along near the line of the dunes. Unwisely I leapt up with my camera to get a closer picture. Startled, the crab commenced burying itself in the impression of a footprint in the sand. Back at the lounger the book was put aside, and I started to scour the landscape. There was another crab, and another. They were all over the place if you looked closely enough. Using the camera at its maximum zoom I spent almost an hour observing their behaviour and taking snaps. It was quite hard as they seemed to detect the slightest movement even yards away, and they would flit for cover. Ghost Crabs about to tussle, Jacksonville Beach 9th June 2009
The beach was full of holes excavated by the crabs, every so often one would pop out, deposit its load of sand at the entrance, then retreat for its next batch. The crabs were about the size of a human hand, but complete with fiercesome pincers.

Later internet research identified these crabs as Ghost Crabs, and the description here from Wikipedia seems a perfect match:

Ghost crabs, also called sand crabs, are crabs of the genus Ocypode, common shore crabs in many countries. In the south eastern United States, Ocypode quadrata is frequently seen scurrying along beaches between sunset and dawn.

These crabs are called ghosts because of their ability to disappear from sight almost instantly, scuttling at speeds up to 10 miles per hour, while making sharp directional changes. These creatures have two black eyes, with very good 360° vision.

The ghost crab tunnels down four feet into the ground at a 45° angle, creating 1-2 inch wide holes, which speckle the beach. At dusk, these crabs will sprint to the ocean in order to obtain oxygen from the water which washes over their gills, and in the beginning of the summer, females will release their eggs into the ocean.

This is another interesting piece on the Ghost Crab by Patricia B. Mitchell Hungry Nocturnal Ghosties

As more people arrived on the beach the crabs stayed hidden for longer so I returned to my book and tan. The latter is a sore point, literally, as the Factor 50 proved somewhat useless, and I realised later that the 3 hours on the beach had been enough to inflict a burnt back and shoulders. At least I escaped crab bites!

More photos

Ghost Crab, Jacksonville Beach 9th June 2009

Ghost Crab amongst the pebbles and shells, Jacksonville Beach 8th June 2009

Around 2pm everday…

…this seems to happen:

Rainy days (Click for short video - 8Mb download)

Yesterday I daubed sun block all over myself in readiness for the beach only for the sky to darken and a thunderstorm take hold before I even got out of the door. It stayed around until early evening flooding the street outside. Today I managed to get to the beach, but after ten minutes it went ominously dark and a large raindrop landed on my chest. I sat in contemplation for a few minutes hoping it would pass but as the rain drops gathered pace I decided to follow the example of the rest of the people fleeing the beach. They were obviously well versed in the Jacksonville weather. I trudged back to the apartment just 25 minutes after setting out. A wise choice, as almost with ritual timing the heavens opened, the thunder cracked and heavy rain stopped play. Molly Cat has taken up residence under a bed, and it looks like another afternoon cooped up for me too.

Stop Press - The Aftermath:

The aftermath of 90 minutes of rain 8th June 2009

Big splash - the aftermath of 90 minutes of heavy rain 8th June 2009

Everything in America seems bigger…

Whopping traffic cones
…Even the traffic cones. Third Street and environs are replete with roadworks at the moment and there’s traffic cones all over the place. But these are whoppers. I’d like to see some drunken student stagger off with one of these beauties and display it as a trophy in the communal living room like they do in the UK. They’d be lucky to get a few feet towards home before exhaustion or police intervention halted their progress. You can’t exactly smuggle one of these along the road eh?! ;-)

Acme traffic cone
I always thought ACME was only found in cartoons! Apparently not!

Rain and DIY / cleaning has stopped play. There’s nothing much of interest to report. So meanwhile here’s some other recently taken photos from around the Jacksonville Beach area.

Jacksonville Beach Fire Dept
The fire appliances always look resplendent, any free time must be spent cleaning these machines

Jacksonville Beach Band Stage
Jacksonville Beach Band Stage being prepared for Friday’s Moonlight Movies, free shows out in the open which start at 9pm. Children’s play area provided too.

It’s a rough life…

…but only in the saddle! ;-) A fortnight into the US adventure and at this current time life is good and I am happy. I’m building up a simple routine that keeps me focused and the many hours of sunshine each day definitely help. I’ve always suspected that I might be prone to bouts of SAD, affected by the cold dark winter times in the UK, then generally perking up as spring starts and the days become lighter. Over here with an average of nine hours of sunshine most days I rarely feel low, irritated by the humidity sometimes, but I think the climate suits me. Of course there is the bonus of not going to work, which might be a major factor in the stress reduction stakes. ;-) As time goes on having no meaningful occupation may start to become an issue, but I have plenty to be getting on with, once I’ve completed some DIY jobs around the apartment I intend to make a start on some of my other projects like learning Italian and trying to practice playing notes on a guitar rather than just strumming chords. I also have several books to read, and a few ideas about things to write myself.

I think it helps to that I’m getting plenty of exercise on the bike, which is my primary mode of transport. The bike in question is nothing special, in fact it was a kind donation by one of Tina’s friends on my very first visit to Jacksonville. The trusty steed outside of the apartment blockBut it is vital to my life at the moment, and up to press I’m enjoying using it every day. Add the substantial distances between places over here to the equation and it leads to some long rides. For example on Sunday I decided to ride all the way to the Food Lion supermarket on Mayport Road to partake in their special offer of two bottles of factor 50 sunscreen for the price of one - I am on a tight budget after all, or maybe I was living in Yorkshire too long, a county renowned for keeping a close eye on its wallet. ;-) According to Google Maps the planned route was 5 miles each way. However Google didn’t actually show that one road I intended to use was a private gated complex surrounding a lake, and on arriving at it a quick scan of the map revealed I had to double back and take a detour of at least two miles, maybe more. So that trip to save me $6.99 provided around 12 miles of exercise mainly through the pleasant leafy suburbs, until I got closer to the supermarket where I saw shrimp outlets, and my first gun store. Later that evening I went down to Neptune Beach to get some sandpaper I’d forgotten earlier, so that probably brought my daily tally up to 17 miles. Luckily everywhere is flat so there’s little effort apart from battling with the heat.

To give you some idea, the nearest bank and supermarket at Jacksonville Beach are a one and a half miles round trip, after moving it in March the nearest post office is now three miles there and back, while the my bank and preferred stores at Neptune Beach are probably a five miles journey overall. On Monday after a morning of sanding in the bathroom I had to head out to South Beach Plaza to the hardware store. That was another six miles round trip. It is also evident that I travel a lot faster than the average Floridian, who tends to trundle along at turtle speed. Returning to the apartment on Sunday evening I sped past a slow moving group of three riders meandering about the road. One of them exclaimed, “Say I wonder what’s up with that guy, he must have diarrhoea or something!”

Here’s a few more photos of recent daily life…

At the end of the road is the sea
The view when I walk out of the apartment and turn right. At the end of the road is the beach and Atlantic Ocean. Photo taken about 7pm.

Cat Nap
After 17 miles on the bike I’m entitled to a cat nap!

Molly mischief
There are no limits to the mischief Molly gets up to. Here bug chasing.

More photos from May

This is a biscuit…

The Southern Biscuit
…in the southern states of the USA. What the British call biscuits are known as cookies as many will know, but while I’ve had them before at the Cracker Barrel restaurant in Titusville, I got the chance to observe the southern biscuit more closely when Tina made some the other night. They remind me more of the British scone, and they are very tasty.

Biscuits are apparently a common feature of southern US cuisine and are often made with buttermilk. They are traditionally served as a side dish with a meal which is how we had them, and mighty fine they were too y’all. But they can also be had as a breakfast item, often eaten with butter and a sweet condiment such as molasses, light sugarcane syrup, sorghum syrup, honey, or fruit jam. I can vouch for them with honey. However less appealing in my view, biscuits and gravy (biscuits covered in “country gravy”*) are usually served for breakfast, sometimes as the main course. Gravy? Tsk! It’s just wrong!

I found this recipe for the southern biscuits.

*Country gravy is made from the drippings of cooked pork sausage, white flour, milk, and often bits of real sausage, bacon, ground beef, or other meat. It’s a bit like a Béchamel sauce. The gravy is also often flavored with black pepper. In some parts of the South this is also called “Sawmill Gravy”. I’m not surprised, it sounds foul!

Rainy Riverside trip is no washout

Rainy Five Points junction Riverside, Jacksonville. Keep Right is a local political instruction as much as a traffic order
As you might imagine, gasoline here is relatively cheap at $2.35 a gallon, (it passed $4 when I was here last June) so it comes as no surprise that the car is king, and gas guzzlers are aplenty. As a result the bus service is frowned upon, considered the transportation of the poor, a last resort. Not for me, it is the transport of choice for longer distances beyond my capabilities on a bicycle. Yesterday I arranged to meet with my friend and fellow Stoke City supporter, Calvin, to have a coffee or four, moan about the state of football at the Britannia Stadium, and generally put the world to rights. Calvin lives in “historic” Riverside not far from downtown Jacksonville. My journey from the beach was some 20 miles, but cost only $1 on the bus to downtown, and 50 cents on the Riverside Trolley to get to the coffee shop at Five Points. That’s about one Pound Sterling. Admittedly I needed two different buses to get home which brought my overall journey cost to $3.50 (£2.20) for 40 miles. I travelled in air-conditioned comfort and was able to relax and read my book, an autobiography by Stoke City legend Denis Smith, which incidentally is very entertaining but clearly was never introduced to a proof-reader before publication. One passage describes team mate Eric Skeels as being only five feet nine inches, but being able to compete with forwards who were five or six inches tall. I should hope he could. I didn’t realise that the Stoke City team in the 1960s and 1970s regularly encountered opposing sides with a couple of Smurfs upfront.

Anyway if any Jacksonville residents are reading this I recommend using the bus more. It’s cheap, comfortable, and you avoid parking fees. Also you can relax and enjoy the journey rather than fight the traffic, plus you’ll be doing your bit for the environment. As usual Calvin and I somehow managed to pass nearly five hours together. I’m not sure where time goes when we meet but it must be a sign of good company. Fire truck in the Riverside downpour 28th May 2009Alas our usual spot outside, perfect for people watching, had to be abandoned shortly after arrival due to a freak downpour which appeared from nowhere, dissecting a hot and sunny day. So we scurried inside and continued our discussions there. Calvin is already a stalwart of this establishment, it is his regular haunt. However the owner recognised me from my last visits, and my coffee was on the house complete with warm handshake. Thankfully the storm passed by the time I had to head back to the beaches, but it didn’t ruin my trip to Riverside in any case. I enjoyed seeing Calvin again. The return was not without drama, a police car with siren blaring pulling over a jeep right in front of me as I waited at the bus stop. I did my best not to look like a gawping tourist and adopted a nonchalant pose, acting like bus stop busts were two a penny where I come from. Actually in Beeston it’s usually police helicopters…

Memorable Memorial Day

Monday 25th May was Memorial Day here in the USA. It is to commemorate those who lost their lives fighting for their country, and is a national holiday although many stores stay open. Tina was also off work so we decided to do something with her two youngest boys. Morning near Ponte Vedra BeachBut before we picked them up we had an early morning bike ride for an hour or so before it got too hot, taking the back roads down to the start of Ponte Vedra Beach, admiring the colourful and impressive houses along the beach front. We came back along the beach for most of the way until the combined force of the sun, and the resistance of the wet sand enticed us back to the easier roads for the last stage of the journey.

The afternoon was spent at Fort Clinch State Park, home to a fine 19th century preserved fort. Although no battles were fought there, it was garrisoned during both the Civil and Spanish-American wars. We picnicked, wandered around the battlements, and then ventured out on one of the trails that runs through the park grounds. We were disappointed not to see alligators and armadillos like last visit, but nature is not like on demand movies, we dance to her tune. Here’s some more photos of the day…

Tina morning bike ride Stork Jacksonville Beach Stork Jacksonville Beach Fort Clinch Willow Pond Trail, Fort Clinch State Park

More photos from May 2009

Normal service has resumed… for now

Beaches Leader 22 May 2009 - Rain pummels BeachToday is my fifth full day in Jacksonville after arriving on Tuesday night. Amazingly this is the first day I have actually been down to the beach to partake in my “usual” morning bike ride, in fact the first time to the beach for any reason. The sun is out, the sky has patches of blue, and the temperature is up. Nothing surprising about that you might think, but for the last few days we have suffered heavy showers for the majority of the day. I for one have been getting sick off it. Yesterday was Tina’s day off from her main job so we had almost a full day to do something before she did a couple of hours at her second job. But the weather was so dismal it ended up being a day of wandering around stores, and I won’t bore you with that, the only excitement being the discovery of a $8 DVD player at the Goodwill Thrift Store. Needless to say it turned out to be knackered, and a quick piece of internet research convinced me while the likely new part was only $1.59, the act of soldering it back in place was neither my forte nor worth it! So back it went to the store for a refund.

Any road I digress. The weather has been the main talking point around here and you can see that the usual laid back attitude has been affected, a grumpiness more at home on the wet Leeds side streets being evident amongst the locals. They are used to tropical storms, they are used to flash heavy showers that last an hour or so, but several days on the trot is unusual and unwelcome. The local newspaper, The Beaches Leader weekend edition reported that between last Monday and midday Thursday a total of 9.58 inches of rainfall fell at the Beaches area, Wednesday’s storms accounting for 3 inches alone. The rain was also combined with heavy wind gusts up to 53 mph, the average around 44 mph. The wind was enough to force the closure of Jacksonville Beach Pier after boarding broke away. Meanwhile the drainage system has struggled to cope with the deluge, and there has been flooding in some streets, the rain also setting of alarm systems of some of the nearby buildings, the block of condominiums across the road from us particularly annoying. The newspaper also reported that the pier wooden struts showed that around two feet of sand had been blown or washed away during the storms.

But today was thankfully different. I woke to sunshine and hastily set out on the bike to enjoy the beach and test the new rear tyre. Jacksonville Beach 24 May 2009 (I’d been out briefly two days earlier and pumped the tyres at a local gas station. Imagine my surprise several hours later when there was a loud explosion in the lounge, the brief smell of burning, a startled yelp from the cats, and I found the rear tyre had actually blown up! There was a lengthy gash with some strange green seepage trickling out. Unnerving. So my shopping purchases had included a new tyre, inner tube, and foot pump).

Anyway the tide was coming in so there was little beach to actually ride along so I switched back to the road after a few blocks. Sea at Jax Beach 8:30am 24th May 200910th Avenue Lifeguard Seat 24th May 2009Even at just after 8am the sun is very strong, so it was a short trip to avoid getting burnt. The forecast is for more heavy showers today during the afternoon, so hopefully I can get out beforehand to avoid them, but for the time being I’m listening to Stoke City getting a football lesson at Arsenal as half time approaches. The idiot BBC Stoke commentator John Acres opined at kick off that Stoke “could get something from this”, fancying a draw. It’s currently Arsenal 4 Stoke City 1. I ask you.

A new day, a new country, a new chapter

When I started this blog I was determined not to litter it with the mundane aspects of life like going down to the supermarket, or hoovering the house. I wanted to post items that might be interesting to the reader, provoke debate, or deliver amusement. Any regular visitor to this blog (if there are any left!) will have noted that I’ve not posted anything for a good while. This is partly because recent life has been taken up with the day to day stuff that isn’t interesting copy, and when I’ve had subjects I wanted to write about, it’s been an effort to find the time. The reason for the sustained activity and lack of time is what leads me to be sitting in an appartment in Jacksonville Beach Florida writing this now - what I nicknamed “Operation Jax”.

Don’t worry, it’s not some covert operation to threaten world peace, but a determined and organised plan to spend six months living with Tina in Jacksonville to see how our relationship progressed. It has seen much saving of the pennies, obtaining a career break at work, a mortgage payment holiday, visiting the US Embassy in London, and selling the car. I won’t bore you with the details but suffice it to say I had about a eight or nine page project plan by the time I’d finished. There’s so much to think about, more than you initially imagine. The US Visitors’ visa is a particuarly complex process, and while I’d expected potential issues at work, my line manager shocked and delighted me by agreeing to my career break within seconds of the request leaving my mouth, something I’d feared might be far harder to obtain. Maybe that says something about how much they’d actually miss me! Most people at work seemed more concerned about whether I was throwing a leaving party or bringing in goodbye cakes! ;-) No it’s actually quite humbling how many people seem genuinely pleased for me that this has come off, and the best wishes I’ve received from so many people is rather touching. It’s taken longer than I’d hoped but I think it will be worth the wait and the modest sacrifice.

So after one final night at my parents’ house, on the morning of Tuesday 19th May we set off to Manchester Airport for my flight to a new chapter. My churning stomach wasn’t helped five minutes into the journey by a surprise tailback on the A500 caused by an accident. A quick diversion round the northern towns of the Potteries, and the scenic route along the A50 through Cheshire saved the day and had me at the airport with bags of time. An emotional farewell later I was at my gate when the ex-footballer and manager Graeme Souness appeared on some stairs, wandered straight past me, urging his companion to hurry up or they’d miss the plane. There’s something about plane travel and me seeing celebrities, I can add Souness to Angus Deayton, Lisa Stansfield, and Paulo Wanchope as people either seen in departures, or actually on the plane. The rest of the journey to Atlanta was fairly uneventful, I couldn’t sleep so watched two excellent movies of differing genres, the moving “The Reader”, and the simmering “Gran Torino”. Clint Eastwood back in top form.

The real drama started in Atlanta. The Customs & Border Protection Service have a laidback attitude to processing the queues of new arrivals, our side of the hall had three officers, while the other side appeared to have three times as many, despite supervisors patrolling the floors. The result was a long wait to see whether I was going to be granted my six months permit. It turned out to be a longer wait than I initially thought. Eventually arriving at the usually routine passport and fingerprint check, I was informed that my “processing” (sounds painful!) would be completed in another office, my documents were placed in a large yellow trimmed transparent folder, and I wandered disconsolately with them to the double doors I’d been directed to. In this back office I waited around an hour to be seen with a wide range of visa / residency seekers of all nationalities. The whole plan came down to what was decided in the next few moments. A bit like a football team’s season resting on a penalty shootout. After what seemed an age my time came, and a friendly officer questioned me for some while, and eventually was satisfied that my story was truthful and didn’t even wish to see my supporting evidence, the presence of them piled on the table was enough! With a smile, a warning to behave myself, and a “good luck” the officer granted me the six months visa and let me out back into the main hall to collect my bags. The plan had taken into account this possibility, I’d factored in a four hours layover between flights, so I still had two hours to make my connection - easy! A huge falafel and hummus wrap later I was boarding the plane to Jacksonville.

Apart from the fact the weather was awful and the landing was a tad fraught, that journey passed easily with the anticipation of seeing Tina. I ran the last few yards along the arrivals route so we came together like the scene from a romantic movie - I think black and white film and a steam filled railway station would have been most appropriate! ;-) So I’m here, and I’m here for a while. I hope to make regular posts if I have things of interest to report. As I complete this the rain has seemed to have stopped for the first time since I arrived. It’s been heavy showers all the way so far. A quick sprint from the Regency Mall to the bus stop yesterday resulted in a right soaking I can tell you. I am getting used to my new surroundings, and the fact that I’m not off back after two weeks this time, there’s drawers for my clothes and I’m no longer living out of a suitcase. Hadley and Molly in a rare moment of peace Hadley Cat is also adjusting to me being here, she doesn’t like disruption to her routine, while Molly Cat is quite the opposite, delighted to have another outlet for her particularly cute brand of attention seeking. Tina is now at work, and the cats are having a moment’s peace after a session of grappling and hissing. I think the sun is trying to burn through the haze, and it’s now time to leave this, shower and get out of the house for a while. More to follow soon.

PS A huge thanks to family and friends who have helped this all to come together whether it be looking after the house, my scooter or whatever. You know who you are and I’m grateful beyond words. Thank you.

A Totalitarian’s Tick List?

Last night I attended a local Green Party monthly meeting. These are open to all, not just party members, and they take the form of a brief presentation followed by a discussion. The topic yesterday was “Civil Liberties”. Martin who delivered the talk took Naomi Wolfe’s “Ten steps to Fascism” as his central theme for the discussion, and very thought provoking it was too. Wolfe argues that Fascist and totalitarian regimes almost have a shopping list of ten things they must achieve if constitutional freedoms are to be snuffed out by the would-be dictators. She draws parallels with the Bush administration but it doesn’t take much of a leap to see how a similar picture is developing in the UK. But then again as Matt Johnson opined on The The’s excellent “Infected” LP, we are the 51st state of the USA.

Read Wolfe’s full article but the 10 steps to Fascism are;

1. Invoke a terrifying internal and external enemy
2. Create a gulag
3. Develop a thug caste
4. Set up an internal surveillance system
5. Harass citizens’ groups
6. Engage in arbitrary detention and release
7. Target key individuals
8. Control the press
9. Dissent equals treason
10. Suspend the rule of law

Update
Almost right on cue, a day after writing this the BBC report on the worrying increase of surveillance in Britain today. See here: warning over a “surveillance state”..